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Monday, January 28, 2013

Gathered Button up

So I just started two sewing classes for this semester, and I'm loving them! My first class is sewing with knits, which is super cool and is convincing me that I need a serger. I also have an alterations class which is really exciting for me, so I can finally learn proper techniques for doing what I do.
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The tutorial is for another button up that I finished just before school started. I had seen tops like the one at the left, and hoped I could do something like it.








You will need a shirt at least 2 sizes larger than your normal clothing size, another shirt that fits for a pattern, and elastic thread. If you've never used elastic thread, don't worry, it's cheap, and easy to use, but if you're still intimidated, you can skip the that part entirely.

Step 1: Remove the sleeves, and pocket, if it has one, from your large shirt. I also ripped out the side seams, although I'm not sure I had to.
Step 2: Where you want the gather in the front, cut straight across. I used my well fitting shirt to help me see where the finished gather would be.  I followed the stripes to help me cut straight, but if you need, you can draw a line to help you.
Cut all the way through the plackets. When you're finished you should have a separate piece.
Step 3: If the back of your shirt has a seam, like mine did, take out the stitching. Otherwise, decide where you want the gather and cut across the back.
Step 4: Cut the remaining piece with the collar to size, using the shirt that fits as a guide.
Step 5: Along the shirt back, sew a basting stitch, then matching the back center to the collar back center, gather (by pulling on one thread) and pin together. when you are satisfied, stitch together. I concentrated the gathers in the center of the back.








(This is what it looks like underneath)



Step 6: Do the same with the front, gathering pinning and sewing in place.
Press the seam from your gathers up, away from the bunchy side.
Step 7: Sew up the sides

Step 8: Gather the sleeves in about the top 1/3. I gathered on the top of the shoulder between the yellow pins.
With the shirt inside out, pin the sleeves in place, right sides together. Start by matching the underarm seams, and pull your gathering stitches as needed.
Step 9: (This is optional, but I love how it looks!) Using your elastic thread sew a straight line up the center of your sleeve. The elastic will gather as you go. Be sure to knot the threads where you start and stop.
That's it! Now you have a cute blouse to wear.



Monday, January 14, 2013

Ruffled Blouse

I guess it's no surprise, I'm just getting to posting about all the crafting I did over the winter break. It's been one thing after the next, and I'm still not caught up. I've got some more work to do on some custom car seat covers I'm making as my brother's Christmas gift, and I have 2 shirts waiting to be taken in, but such is the life of a crafter.

This tutorial is to show you how to take in a shirt that is just a little too big, and use the extras for embelishment. You will need a large shirt, a comfy shirt for a pattern, and about 15-20 in of elastic.

Step1: Remove the sleeves. A good quality blouse will have a chain stitch that should pull out easily, and a surged edge you will need to rip out. If your blouse is very large, you can probably just cut out the stitching.

Step 2: Find a shirt that fits you well to use as a pattern. DON'T use a stretchy blouse. Lay out your large shirt, with the pattern on top, and cut around it leaving about 1/2 in for the seam.
 Don't forget to cut around the arm hole to make it the right size.
Sew the sides together.
Step 3: For the gathered sleeve, fold up the bottom about 3/4 of an inch (or wide enough to put your elastic through) and sew, leaving a hole for putting your elastic through.
Measure how much elastic you want by wrapping it around your arm, and cut to length. Thread your elastic though (a safety pin on the end makes this easy), sew your elastic ends together, and sew up the hole. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Step 4: With your blouse inside out, pin your sleeves in place. Be sure the right sides are together, and match the underarm seam.
You will need to make a few pleats in the top of the sleeve to fit the new armhole (and make it cute.) Be sure that these are the same on each sleeve. Once you are satisfied, stitch your sleeve in.

Hooray, your blouse should fit! This is basically how I fit any shirt to the right size, even t-shirts (although I sometimes use the pattern shirt to cut the sleeves smaller instead of gathering and pleating the sleeves.)

Remember the pieces you cut out of the side earlier?
These will become your ruffles.

Step 5: Cut out the seams, and finish the outside edges of your extra pieces.  I used a zig zag stitch, but if you have a surger that would work too. You should end up with 4 separate pieces With the right sides out, stack 2 together, and gather along the where the seam used to be. (To gather use a basting stitch and pull one thread to scrunch the material) Do the same with the other 2. (Sorry for the blur. I only took 1 picture, but hopefully it helps a little)
Step 6: Pin and sew these ruffles right next to the placket
Enjoy your new blouse!